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Solid Fare 

Perry's Inverness Park Grocery ups the deli ante

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Perry's Inverness Park Grocery is your basic West Marin gourmet deli. Which is to say that there's nothing basic about it. For every grocery staple, there's another that's hooked into the magic market of West Marin. One fridge is loaded with Mary's Chicken, and around every bend there's another locally sourced product—Shorty's Produce included.

Last week the deli opened an eat-in room adjacent to the main store. The gist: family-style benches and a wooden counter along the window upon which to rest your weary hams.

Enjoy the views. There's big ol' Elephant Mountain yonder-ways and sheep bumbling in a field across the street. When you're at Perry's, you are deep at the edge of the fringe of the center of pure wilderness.

Order at the deli and enjoy your snack in the fresh-painted room, whose walls are filled with prints from photographer Daniel Dietrich. Chef Ed Vigil's fresh on the scene here, and he's cranked up a choice selection of new salads, specials and sammies.

I ordered an $11 Cubano off the deli chalkboard. It's a dense, pressed sandwich and appears to be a new addition, since it's not on the printed menu. The verdict? That is one good and meaty Cuban policy, and the sandwich is pretty good too.

I also tried Perry's $6.75 breakfast burrito: bacon, potatoes, melted cheese, eggs, green chilies, your mama. Total rib-sticker.

I munched that burrito with a big coffee and tuned in to the locals and their chit-chat: the tides, the weather, alien sightings on Inverness Ridge.

There's a sign in the new room that says, simply, "Gather." And so we gather, wearing muddy boots, drinking coffee, expecting rain and appreciating solid fare in a sweet new spot.

Perry's Inverness Park Grocery, 12301 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Inverness Park. 415.663.1491.

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