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Sashimi Dreams 

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Does Shige dream of sushi the same way Jiro dreams of sushi? Shigekazu Mori, former sushi chef at Hiro—the best restaurant in Rohnert Park and one of the top sushi bars in the North Bay—has opened his own joint in downtown Cotati. In the old Nagomi spot, Shige Sushi replaces Nagomi as Cotati's raw, pesca-vegetarian dining option.

Inside, it's visually an improvement over its predecessor. Gone are the flat-screen televisions with a looped DVD of an odd Japanese tourism video. New are the menu additions of tuna poke and matcha (concentrated, powdered green tea) mousse. Also new are the prices, which are slightly higher than locals might be used to.

But the quality justifies the price. Not only is the décor of the small space (22 seats, including the bar) more appealing, the fish seems, well, just generally better. Not a knock on Nagomi, which had the best sushi lunch special around, but its main draw was the low price. It wasn't the type of place that would lure curious diners off the freeway and through downtown Cotati. Shige, with its selection of traditional and Americanized (read: mayo-topped) rolls and expertly prepared nigiri, might be just that.

Shige Sushi, 8235 Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati. Lunch, Tuesday–Friday; dinner, Tuesday–Sunday. 707.795.9753.

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